Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Korean Style Ulzzang (얼짱) Makeup

Most of you familiar with Korean beauty trends will have heard of the ulzzang or "best face" phenomenon here. I don't usually wear this style, but can't call myself a blogger about Korean beauty without an attempt! Now, there are different ways to achieve this look and of course, as a Western woman, the look will look different on me than on Korean girls. The important thing is staying true to the principle. The basic concept for an ulzzang look is to make your face as doll-like as possible. That means big puppy dog eyes, flawless skin, and a small cute mouth. The makeup itself is meant to look minimal and natural. Another key feature of this look is enhancing the V-line shape of your face with contouring.

From what I understand, ulzzangs are famous on the internet for being pretty. I guess it's like the girls who call themselves "Instagram models" back home, but focusing only on the face. There are also guy ulzzangs who happen to be super talented at being cute, and you better believe they wear at least BB cream and eyebrow pencil!

Part 1: Day Look

Ok, let's get started with the makeup! Here's my Caucasian girl interpretation:

There are two schools of thought about ulzzang base makeup. It used to always have a dewy finish, usually achieved with a BB or CC cream. Lately, I've seen some applying powder for a matte finish. It doesn't really matter, but I prefer a dewy look. After applying my Etude Wonder Pore primer, I'm going to use the TonyMoly Luminous Pure Aura CC cream SPF30 PA++. It only comes in one shade and blends pretty well on my fair skin, though I'm not sure about darker skin tones. This stuff gives a really nice dewy finish, which I'll discuss in further detail when I do a mulgwang or "wet skin" tutorial later. ^^

Just dot one pump's worth all over your face and blend with your fingertips. The result should be a smooth canvas with a slight sheen.

Now go ahead and apply a lip balm to soften your lips. You'll wipe it off later, but lip concealer can really sink in and look gross if your lips are chapped. I like the classic Smith's Rosebud Salve.

Next, the eyes! I'm gong to use my trusty Urban Decay Naked palette (original) to create a subtle look that enlarges the eyes. Seriously, do yourself a favor and buy this palette! All of the Naked palettes are great, but I maintain that the original is the most versatile. For example, I sometimes use a stiff brush to apply Naked or Buck over my eyebrows to thicken them and set the pencil. 

You can use any eyeshadow you want, but they should be similar to these. You're going to want 3 shades: 

1) Virgin: a shimmer white 
2) Naked: a matte nude brown
3) Buck: a matte warm light brown

Got 'em? Good. Get yourself a fluffy blending brush (I use the one that comes with the palette). There are three steps with the eye shadow.

Step 1: Blend shades 1 and 2 and apply all over your lid (not above the crease). 

The effect should be subtle and it should closely match your natural skin color. 

Step 2: Using an angled brush, apply shade 3 to the outer corners of your lid (not quite 1/3).

It should be extended down slightly at the end for a round puppy dog look. 

Step 3: Accentuate the "aegyo sal" or eye bags. Just apply shade 1 all along the bottom lashed to highlight the under eye area. 

If you want to use shade 2 just under to make the bags more pronounced, feel free (I usually skip that one). 

Now for eyeliner! Aside from flawless skin, liner is arguably the most important feature of ulzzang makeup. 

Using a black liquid liner (Clio KillBlack ftw!), start at the inner corner of your eye and line it all the way across. Extend the line straight out from the outer corner to make your eyes look wider. Skip liner on the bottom lashes. 

Next, add mascara! It's best not to use false eyelashes for this look--the emphasis should be on the liner. 

Eyes done! Now for face contouring.

I'm by no means a master of contouring, so I prefer to keep it subtle. If you're interested in extreme contouring, there's plenty of great tutorials out there! My friend Stella has a wicked contouring palette that you can do a ton with. 

I keep it chill, however, using only 3 products: matte bronzer, blush, and highlighter.

Step 1: Using a big fluffy brush, apply a cool matte bronzer along the sides of your face from the bottom of your cheek bones down to the jawline to emphasize your V-line. Blend blend blend, because I've seen this go disastrously wrong! If you think you're applying too much, you probably are. Also, use a bit to shade the area where your eyebrows meet the bridge of your nose. 

TonyMoly Crystal Blusher in 5 Sugar Brown

Step 2: Apply a cute pink powder blush along the tops of your cheekbones.

TonyMoly Crystal Blusher in 2 Pleasure Pink

Step 3: Apply a highlighter along the temples, forehead, and down the center of your nose. You can use liquid or powder. My favorites respectively are Benefit High Beam and Dior Diorskin Nude Shimmer Instant Illuminating Powder in 001. Today I'll use High Beam. ^^

Please follow these rough guidelines when contouring. Shade 1 is bronzer, 2 is blush, 3 is highlighter.

Sorryyyyyyy I suck at photoshop

Ok, now for lips! I think the Korean gradient lip look was designed with fuller lipped ladies in mind, but small mouths can still be cute and are on point for this trend specifically.

My K-pop queen of cute <3

To get the signature tiny dolly mouth, you'll need a lip concealer (or a regular concealer if you don't want to buy one specifically for lips). I'll use TonyMoly Face Mix Primer Lip Concealer

It should block out most of the pigment in your lips.

Next, take a creamy coral lipstick to add a hint of color and warmth. I'll use MAC Sheen Supreme lipstick in Korean Candy (big thanks to my girl Emma who bought us both matching lipstick as a going away present when I moved to Korea! Love you, girl!).

Subtle and cute.

Here's the finished look for day:


Part 2: Night Look

Now, to make the look a bit more intense and sexy for evening, choose white sparkly liquid liner to bling out your big dolly eyes. I'll use the Etude Tear Drop Liner in 1 White Tear

There's also a really pretty gold and pink one, but I like the classic white. Just use it to line the inner corner of your bottom lashes for a sparkly effect. 

You should stop when you reach your pupil.

For a sexy lip look, choose a cherry red lip tint to make a nice gradient look. I'll use the Face Shop Lovely me:ex My Lips Eat Cherry Aqua Tint in 01 Juicy Cherry.

The one on the left.
Just do as you did before and dab it in the center of lips and blend. Use as much as you like for the desired gradient effect. 

That was easy, right? ^^ Here's the finished look:

I call it Betty Boop style kk

Use your cuteness responsibly, lovelies! <3

Thanks for reading! I hope the Korean makeup inspired ulzzang look works well for you! Please comment and tell me what you think or if there are any other Korean styles you'd like to see! ^^


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